November 2, 2025

Greetings!

You find me today in beautiful Sête, France, where I am heading into the city to explore its picturesque canals and buildings, but more importantly, hit the food market! I'm growing concerned that Dmitry is reaching saturation point with the food markets of Southern Europe. Time will tell.

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I want to extend a warm welcome to everyone who joined this mailing list this week! It's lovely to have so many new subscribers and I hope you will enjoy the Sunday missives.

Many of you kindly wrote to tell me you are enjoying the new “Books for Travelers” email that now comes out on alternate weeks to the Destination Curation Newsletter. I’m so happy this resonates with you! I’ve long wanted to provide longer descriptions of the reading list picks, and have been working on getting these done this autumn. I’ll be uploading these steadily over the next weeks to the Books For Travelers section of my website.

This has been a busy week, making stops in some of my favorite cities in Southern and Western Spain.

Cartagena is always a treat. This “New Carthage” is always fun with its wealth of Roman ruins, wide streets, and appealing harbor. I’ve been there several times, so we made a delicious luncheon of tuna belly and tomatoes the focus of our visit. I love this combination, which veers very much from my more common Baltic approach to pairing tuna with dill, mayo, and cucumbers, but after my lunch in Cartagena, I’m sold.

Next stop, Valencia, where I headed to the Mercat Central like a guided missile. What a stunning place! I first visited Valencia on a Viking Ocean Cruise in 2021, just as the COVID-19 restrictions were lifting. We still had to wear masks, test daily, and — most frustratingly — we were very limited in our ability to explore on our own on shore. I joined a walking tour of the city that stopped in front of, but did not go inside the Mercat Central, and I vowed right there and then to dedicate an entire morning to it someday! Tuesday was that morning, and it was fabulous. I am very behind on my photo management but will start posting some video footage of the morning soon.

Valencia is a stunning city with everything to recommend it: breathtaking architecture, astonishing modern buildings, easy access to the beach (although it is considered “the city with its back to the sea,”) a fabulous food scene, and the entire place just pulses with energy. I can’t wait to return!

Valencia is also the birthplace of paella, and we were delighted to sample it at a marvelous local restaurant for Paella Valenciana with artichokes, sausages, and snails. We joined a dear friend who is lucky enough to live in this utterly marvelous city. She’s invited us to come and stay longer, and we will certainly take her up on that!

After that, onto the Balearic Islands: first to charming Mahon on Menorca — always a treat, and then stunning Palma de Mallorca, where I spent most the day filming and taking photos as I’m planning an 8-Hour Guide to this engaging city, with its flamboyant cathedral and twisting streets.

I allowed myself to get a little lost, which is always rewarding, as I found a superb delicatessen selling a wide variety of sausages, olive oils, and dips.

Destination Spotlight: Málaga, Spain

I am so excited to share my passion for Málaga with you!

Over my numerous visits during the past two years, I see that this sun-drenched Andalusian capital is far more than the convenient cruise port or Costa del Sol gateway many travelers assume it to be. With nearly 3,000 years of continuous urban history—from Phoenician trading post through Roman colony, Islamic cultural center, and modern artistic capital—Málaga offers sophisticated travelers an intoxicating blend of ancient heritage, world-class museums, and authentic Mediterranean soul.

I felt slightly intimidated putting together 8 Hours in Málaga: Top things to Do and See | 2025 which I just posted this week: there was so much to say, so many things to recommend, and so about Malaga that I feel makes it the perfect port in Southern Spain. But I needn’t have been afraid: once I rolled up my sleeves and started writing, it simply flowed.

While I’ve tried to condense the full 8 Hours in Málaga: Top things to Do and See | 2025 into this Destination Spotlight, I hope you’ll visit the full piece, particularly if you are planning a visit to Southern Spain or the Costa del Sol.

What strikes me most about Málaga is how visibly layered its history remains. You can literally see millennia stacked like sediment: Roman theatre ruins at ground level, the magnificent 11th-century Arabic Alcazaba fortress rising above them, and 14th-century Gibralfaro Castle crowning the summit where a Phoenician lighthouse once stood 2,800 years ago. This isn't history preserved behind glass—it's woven into the city's living fabric, visible at every turn through the charmingly pedestrianized old town.

Three Essential Málaga Experiences

The Alcazaba: Islamic Spain's Architectural Masterpiece

Perched dramatically above Málaga's port, the Alcazaba is one of Spain's better preserved Arab fortresses and my favorite monument in the city. Constructed during the 11th century under the Hammudid dynasty, this palatial fortress showcases the sophisticated engineering and refined aesthetics of Al-Andalus that would later reach their zenith at Granada's Alhambra.

During my visits, I've climbed through its fortified gates numerous times, each ascent revealing new details. Fragrant gardens punctuate the climb—jasmine and orange trees perfuming the air—while intricate tile work and carved stucco represent the Nasrids’ architectural refinement. The strategic design becomes clear as you navigate double walls and clever defensive passages built to confuse invaders while providing defenders multiple advantages.

From the upper terraces, panoramic views sweep across terracotta rooftops to the Mediterranean beyond. Looking down, you see the Roman Theatre nestled at the fortress's base—a striking juxtaposition of two great civilizations occupying the same strategic hillside. What's remarkable is the visible recycling: the Moors repurposed stone and marble from the Roman theatre for their fortress walls, creating a literal architectural dialogue between epochs.

Connected to the Alcazaba by a winding pathway called the Coracha, Gibralfaro Castle crowns the summit at 130 meters above sea level. Built in the 14th century by Nasrid ruler Yusuf I, this military fortress offered the finest views in Málaga—360-degree panoramas where mountains frame the city northward, the Mediterranean stretches southward to the horizon, and the port appears like a toy harbor below.

For more information on the Alcazaba, read the full article.

Take me to the full 8-Hour Guide

Museo Picasso Málaga: A Hometown Master's Return

Pablo Picasso was born on the Plaza de la Merced in 1881, during Málaga's brief industrial golden age. Though his family moved to Barcelona when he was ten, and he never permanently returned, Picasso maintained deep emotional connections to his birthplace throughout his seven-decade career. You can trace Málaga's influence in recurring Mediterranean motifs, Spanish themes, and that distinctive Andalusian sensibility toward light and form.

The Museo Picasso Málaga, which opened in 2003 in the beautifully renovated 16th-century Palacio de Buenavista, offers the most comprehensive journey through Picasso's career I've encountered anywhere. The permanent collection, donated primarily by Christine Ruiz-Picasso and Bernard Ruiz-Picasso (the artist's daughter-in-law and grandson), encompasses over 230 from the artist’s teenage academic studies through his revolutionary Cubist period, Neoclassical return to figuration, and bold final synthesizes decades of innovation.

The museum experience embodies Málaga's layered history. Enjoying 20th-century avant-garde masterpieces in a Renaissance palace, with archaeological remains—a Phoenician wall, a Roman fish-salting factory—visible through glass floors in the basement: this is Málaga in a nutshell. Past and present, ancient and modern, all in dialogue. This juxtaposition feels apt: ancient craftsmen and modern masters were shaped by this Mediterranean crossroads.

For more information on visiting the Museo Picasso Málaga with practical tips, visit the full article.

Take me to the full 8-Hour Guide

Mercado de Atarazanas: Málaga's Culinary Heart

To truly understand Málaga's character, you must experience the Atarazanas Central Market. This 19th-century market hall, incorporating that magnificent 14th-century Arabic gate (Puerta de Atarazanas) as its entrance, creates a dramatic fusion of historical architecture and contemporary commerce. The name derives from Arabic, referencing the medieval shipyards that once occupied this site—another layer in Málaga's civilizational palimpsest.

Stepping through the Arabic horseshoe arch during my morning visits becomes a sensory ritual: fish vendors displaying the Mediterranean's morning catch—gleaming anchovies, robust tuna, delicate sole—arrayed on ice like edible art. Produce sections overflow with seasonal abundance: plump tomatoes, glossy eggplants, bundles of wild asparagus, baskets of olives in dozens of varieties. Jamón stalls showcase legs of acorn-fed Ibérico hanging like stalactites, while cheese makers offer tastings of local varieties from Andalusian farms.

I recommend Atarazanas as far more than a mere tourist market. The bustling institution is so clearly enjoyed by an authentic and enthusiastic local clientele—this is where malagueños shop daily, engaging vendors in animated conversations, inspecting produce with expert eyes, negotiating prices with good-natured persistence. The market remains a genuine community hub rather than a tourist attraction, though sophisticated travelers are warmly welcomed.

The stunning stained-glass window at the far end depicts historical Málaga views and agricultural scenes, filtering Mediterranean light into the hall with jewel-like colors. This 19th-century artwork reminds visitors that markets aren't merely commercial spaces but civic monuments celebrating a city's identity and prosperity.

I visit mid-morning (10-11 AM) when the market buzzes with peak activity but hasn't become crowded. Several excellent tapas bars inside serve ultra-fresh seafood and local specialties—perfect for sampling Málaga's culinary traditions. You can enjoy snacks and drinks standing around the bar, or choose to perch on top of the many stools and tables that line the facade of the market. Consider purchasing picnic supplies: local cheese, marinated fish, olives, jamón, fresh bread—then heading to the beach or ship for an impromptu feast featuring ingredients at their absolute peak.

For more information on visiting the Mercado de Atarazanas and a full guide to Málaga's cuisine, visit the full article.

Take me to the full 8-Hour Guide

Download my recommended restaurant list for Málaga.

Learn more about the Iberian Peninsula’s rich culinary history in my two lengthy articles on these topics: What is Spanish tapas? A Guide to Bar Food in Spain and Spanish and Portuguese Cuisine: Must-Try Dishes.

Why Málaga Matters

After numerous visits, Málaga to me represents something increasingly rare in our over-touristed world: a city that has successfully balanced heritage preservation with contemporary vitality, that welcomes visitors without sacrificing authenticity, that offers genuine cultural depth rather than superficial attractions.

This isn't a museum city frozen in amber, nor is it a manufactured tourist resort. It's a living, working Mediterranean port that just happens to possess extraordinary cultural treasures spanning three millennia. Walking through Málaga, you trace the entire Mediterranean story—Phoenician traders, Roman empire, Islamic golden age, Christian reconquest, industrial revolution, contemporary renaissance. Each layer remains visible, tangible, understandable.

Crucially, each layer influences what came after. The Roman theatre stones became the Arabic fortress. The mosque became the cathedral. The 19th-century market incorporates a 14th-century gate. Nothing was erased; everything was transformed. This dialogue between civilizations—this willingness to build upon rather than destroy what came before—offers lessons far beyond architecture.

When you stand in the Alcazaba gardens, looking down at the Roman theatre and out toward the Mediterranean, you're seeing what Phoenician sailors saw, what Roman actors saw, what Arabic poets saw, what Picasso saw. You're part of a 2,800-year conversation about what it means to be Mediterranean, what it means to be human, what beauty and civilization look like. That's not hyperbole—that's simply what Málaga offers curious travelers willing to look beyond the surface.

For more information on visiting Málaga with my suggestions for must-see venues, recommendations for curated excursions and experiences, visit 8 Hours in Málaga: Top things to Do and See | 2025.

Final Thoughts

Before visiting Málaga, I recommend reading The Ornament of the World by María Rosa Menocal, which was featured last week on my Books for Travelers email. It's not a guidebook but serious history written accessibly and beautifully. It will change how you see not just Málaga but all of Spain, and of course the entire Mediterranean.

Then, when you walk through that Moorish horseshoe arch into Atarazanas Market, when you climb the Alcazaba's ramparts, when you stand in the cathedral built on the mosque's foundations, you'll understand the depth of what you're experiencing. You'll see the layers, appreciate the complexity, recognize the dialogue between civilizations that created the Mediterranean world we've inherited.

If you want to continue exploring the theme of Islamic Spain, consider as well John Freely’s excellent Aladdin’s Lamp: How Greek Science Came to Europe Through the Islamic World. Feely widens the aperture to look at the entire phenomenon of the Arabs nurturing the knowledge of the Ancient World and reintroducing it to Western Europe. This is a theme I cover in many of my talks on board ships, and it is something to remember as you visit Southern Spain.

That understanding—that contextual awareness—transforms tourism into genuine cultural education. Which is exactly what sophisticated travelers seek, and exactly what Málaga delivers, visit after visit.

Visit the full article: 8 Hours in Málaga: Top things to Do and See | 2025

Be sure to check in with the Destination Resources Reading Lists, which I update regularly with new books, podcasts, TV and film, and other resources designed to make your travel meaningful. I did a big update recently, changing the format to make it easier to navigate. Visit via this link!

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Safe onward travels!

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🇪🇸 The Magic of Málaga, Spain 🇪🇸

📚 Books for Travelers | October 26, 2025