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Greetings!
Hello from lovely Barcelona! I am happily settled on Seabourn Ovation and so delighted to meet so many guests with whom I have traveled before! As usual, we are moving suites today, but we have this down to a fine art, so hopefully will have enough time to dash to the Maritime Museum, which has long been on my bucket list.
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We have completed the first segment of our 6-week voyage with a highly enjoyable cruise from Monte Carlo to Barcelona via Italy, Sicily, Corsica, and Saint Tropez (where it rained cats and dogs to my enormous surprise). The highlight, however, was an unforgettable overnight in beautiful Valletta, where we enjoyed seeing a very dear friend who sailed over from Sicily to meet us for dinner.
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I’ve had good attendance at my talks on Italian cuisine, the history of France, the Military Orders of Knights, and Queen Isabella of Castile. As ever, Seabourn passengers delight me with their curiosity and eagerness to learn more about what they are encountering on shore!
I’ve been doing a lot of writing about Malta, a subject that fascinates me. Each time I visit Malta, I’m struck by the depth of its history and culture. I’m trying to learn more about Malta’s cuisine, and will make that the focus of our next visit in a few weeks time.
I’m excited to launch a new section of my website, entitled “Books for Travelers,” with longer reviews of many of the books on my Destination Resources reading lists. It’s early days, but the numbers suggest that these are popular topics. I plan to move the shorter book reviews from this newsletter to a separate standing newsletter that will come out on alternate weeks to the Destination Curation newsletter, so look for the first installment of Books for Travelers on October 26, 2025.
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Malta: Where Ancient History Meets Mediterranean Beauty
Nestled in the heart of the Mediterranean, Malta is a small archipelago with an outsized historical legacy. From prehistoric temple builders to legendary military orders, this sun-drenched island nation has witnessed over 7,000 years of human civilization, making it one of the most historically rich destinations in Europe.
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Ancient Foundations
Malta's story begins with some of humanity's most impressive architectural achievements. The megalithic temples of Ġgantija, Ħaġar Qim, and Mnajdra predate both the Egyptian pyramids and Stonehenge, representing one of the world's earliest sophisticated cultures. These UNESCO World Heritage sites showcase the remarkable ingenuity of Malta's prehistoric inhabitants between 3600 and 2500 BCE.
Successive waves of Mediterranean powers recognized Malta's strategic importance. The Phoenicians, Carthaginians, and Romans all left their mark, but a pivotal moment came in 60 CE when St. Paul was shipwrecked on Malta's shores. This event, recorded in the Acts of the Apostles, established Christianity on the islands and created a religious identity that endures today. Visitors can explore St. Paul's Catacombs in Rabat and the grotto where tradition holds he lived during his three-month stay.
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The Knights of St. John: Malta's Golden Age
Malta's most defining chapter began in 1530 when the Knights of St. John made the islands their home after being expelled from Rhodes by Ottoman forces. These warrior-monks transformed Malta into a Mediterranean powerhouse, but their greatest test came in 1565 during the Great Siege of Malta.
When Suleiman the Magnificent's Ottoman forces arrived with 40,000 troops to capture the islands, they faced determined resistance from just 6,000 Knights and Maltese defenders. The four-month siege became one of history's most dramatic military confrontations, with the fortress of St. Elmo falling after weeks of savage fighting. Despite overwhelming odds, Grand Master Jean de la Valette rallied his forces, and, with the help of Spanish reinforcements ultimately forced the Ottomans to withdraw. This victory halted Ottoman expansion westward and secured Malta's legendary status in European history.
Following their triumph, the Knights built Valletta, a planned Renaissance city named after the heroic Grand Master. The new capital showcased magnificent Baroque architecture, with the Co-Cathedral of St. John as its crown jewel. The cathedral houses works by Caravaggio, including his masterpiece "The Beheading of St. John the Baptist," created during the artist's turbulent stay on Malta.
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Planning Your Visit
Getting Around: Malta's compact size makes exploration easy. Public buses connect major sites, while rental cars offer flexibility for reaching remote temples and coastal villages. Ferries link Malta to its sister island Gozo, home of the ancient Ġgantija temples.
Must-See Historical Sites:
- Valletta's Grand Master's Palace and Co-Cathedral of St. John
- The Three Cities (Vittoriosa, Senglea, Cospicua) for Knights-era fortifications
- Mdina, the medieval walled capital with Arab-influenced architecture
- Megalithic temples at Ħaġar Qim and Mnajdra
- Fort St. Elmo and the National War Museum
Best Time to Visit: Spring (April-June) and autumn (October-November) offer pleasant weather and fewer crowds. Summer brings intense heat and peak tourism, while winter remains mild but can be rainy.
Cultural Tips: Malta's official languages are Maltese and English, making navigation easy for English speakers. The local cuisine blends Italian, North African, and British influences—try pastizzi (savory pastries) and rabbit stew, the national dish.
Practical Considerations: The Heritage Malta Multi-Pass offers excellent value for visiting multiple archaeological sites and museums. Book popular sites like the Hypogeum (prehistoric underground temple), The Grand Master’s Palace, and St. John’s Co-Cathedral well in advance: the security measures are badly organized and long lines, including groups, can create significant delays.
Malta rewards the curious traveler with layers of history compressed into a remarkably small space. Whether you're exploring Bronze Age temples, walking medieval ramparts, or contemplating the heroism of the Great Siege, Malta offers an intimate connection with the past that few destinations can match.
Top Museums to See on Malta
St. John's Co-Cathedral is one of Valletta's more magnificent Baroque masterpieces, built by the Knights of St. John between 1573 and 1578. Behind its austere exterior lies an interior of breathtaking opulence, with gilded vaulted ceilings, ornate chapels dedicated to each langue (division) of the Knights, and a floor composed of over 400 marble tombstones marking the graves of distinguished Knights. The cathedral's greatest treasure is Caravaggio's powerful masterpiece "The Beheading of St. John the Baptist" (1608), considered one of the artist's finest works and the only painting he ever signed.
Book your visit to St. John’s Co-Cathedral ahead of time to avoid extremely poor and badly organized security at the entrance and long lines.
The Grand Master's Palace in Valletta served as the official residence and administrative center of the Knights of St. John from 1571 until their departure in 1798, and today houses the Office of the President of Malta and the House of Representatives. The palace features stunning State Rooms adorned with frescoes depicting the Great Siege of 1565 and tapestries gifted by Grand Master Ramon Perellos, while the Palace Armoury displays one of the world's finest collections of 16th and 17th-century arms and armor used by the Knights. Visitors can explore the ornate Council Chamber, the Ambassadors' Room, and the palace courtyard with its baroque architecture, offering an intimate glimpse into the grandeur and power of the Knights' 268-year rule over Malta.
Malta's prehistoric megalithic temples, including Ġgantija on Gozo and Ħaġar Qim and Mnajdra on the main island, represent some of the world's oldest free-standing structures, dating between 3600 and 2500 BCE—predating both Stonehenge and the Egyptian pyramids. These UNESCO World Heritage sites showcase sophisticated architectural techniques, including corbelled roofs, decorative carvings, and astronomical alignments, revealing a complex prehistoric society with advanced building knowledge and religious practices. The temples' mysterious purpose, likely connected to fertility cults and goddess worship, continues to fascinate archaeologists, while their remarkable preservation allows modern visitors to walk through spaces used for ritual and ceremony over 5,000 years ago.
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I had two days to unpack and repack for a tricky 3-months that will include wildly varying climactic situations from tropical Panama (always the hottest, most humid place I visit) to winter in New England and a windy crossing on the Queen Mary 2. The solution, of course, is layers. Here are some off-season Mediterranean ideas in the lovely blue and yellow hues that are so much a part of this balmy part of the world. Shop the entire collection here.
Suzie Kondi’s Megalo Palazzo Pants are ideal for moving from active exploration to elegant onboard relaxation.
A structured jacket like this Loft Cadet Jacket has just a hint of the nautical about it — perfect to dress down with cropped jeans or up with a white pleated skirt.
Make a nod to the lovely South of France with this adorable Olympia Le-Tan Cote D’Azur Plage Book Clutch.
ON | Cloud X 4 Road-Running Shoes are now a fundamental part of my cruise wardrobe: they look great, but more, importantly, they feel marvelous, even after a long day of scrambling about archaeological sites or becoming foot weary waiting in long lines. They last forever and can either be hand washed or tossed in the washing machine. They are also my go-to shoes for long travel days.
I made the mistake of leaving my Patagonia shell at home on the last cruise — something I will not repeat. Nothing is better on chilly and windy early mornings or for stargazing at night. Light, portable, they also look great.
I’ve avoided denim jackets for years, but have come back to them as an essential part of the cruise wardrobe: just the right layer for unpredictable weather in October and November in the Med. This White House Black Market Cropped Denim Jacket has the perfect shape to pair with many other separates.
These jaunty Lisi Lerch Tennis Stud Earrings are a perfect pop of color for this capsule wardrobe of yellow and blue.
I’m a big fan of Clare V.’s stuff, and I’m yearning for the Grand Bateau Tote in bright yellow! Perfect for beach days, impromptu picnics, and an on-shore shopping haul.
Taller Marmo’s One Shoulder Scarf Detailed Gathered Crepe Cady Gown is perfect for formal evenings, or paired with a jacket for more casual encounters. Easy to pack, light, and very elegant!
Cropped trenches are all the rage now, and they are an ideal layer for the off-season Mediterranean. I love the shape of this Tuckernuck Short Trench.
I never leave home without some kind of wrap, and I would love to add this Chartreuse White and Warren travel wrap to my growing collection!
I’m eyeing a pair of Birkenstock Boston closed toe clogs to add to my off-season shoe collection: my sandals so comfortable and go with everything. I love this bright royal blue!
I love a plain baseball hat, and Madewell has a line of lovely colors in their Canvas Baseball Hats, including this pale yellow.
These Talbots Wide Leg Linen Pants are perfect for a leisurely lunch on shore.
A carefully chosen statement necklace is a key part of my travel capsule wardrobe. I will start saving my pennies for this stunning Marco Bicego 18k Yellow Gold Lunaria Large Mother of Pearl and Textured Disc Statement necklace, which is stunning!
Shop the entire Off-Season Mediterranean Gear collection here.
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Our next leg promises to be just as exciting as this one has been! From Barcelona, we will make stops at Port Vendres in France, wonderful Malaga, where I plan to open the2025 boquerones season, Gibraltar, and then an exciting overnight in Casablanca, with visits to two wonderful Spanish ports I always enjoy: Cartagena and Valencia!
I’m looking forward to seeing dear friends in Valencia and enjoying soaking up everything Spanish and Moroccan over the next ten days. As usual, my focus for future talks has nothing to do with where I am traveling: I’m doing a deep dive into the exploration of Norway’s great Polar Explorers, Fridhof Nansen and Roald Amundsen to prepare for my time on Viking Vela early next year.
As a subscriber to the Destination Curation Newsletter, you have access to my cruise schedule, which you can visit here. If any of these voyages align with your travel plans, I'd love to share the journey with you!
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