I am a food and travel writer as well as a cruise ship enrichment speaker: my passion is exploring the cuisine, history, and culture of new places and writing about them here in my free bi-weekly (twice monthly) Destination Curation newsletter where I look at the intersection of history, culture, and cuisine in major destinations.
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🇹🇷 Exploring Enchanting Ephesus
Published 18 days ago • 11 min read
October 5, 2025
Greetings!
Greetings from Spetses, Greece, on a beautiful sunny day with just a hint of breeze — a reminder that October and November are the perfect time to visit the Greek Islands! This is the last full day of my voyage on Seabourn Encore, though this time next week I will be on her twin, Seabourn Ovation after a quick trip back to Riga to repack and head out again.
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The past few weeks have ticked a lot of boxes for me. I always feel so invigorated in the Eastern Mediterranean: the myriad layers of history and culture and the stunning land and seascapes inspire and enchant. I feel anything is possible here, and my “someday maybe” section of my projects list is overflowing with ideas.
Highlights of this week were a long walk in Istanbul with several stops for truly amazing coffee and an enormous bowl of manti (tiny Turkish dumplings smothered in yogurt and pepper sauce) that I’m calling research.
Manti and Turkish Pepper Sauce
I ticked a major item off my bucket list by finally going to Troy, which was breathtaking. We stood on the high ramparts and gazed out over the flat plains down to the sea, and I could almost hear the clash of swords, the pounding of hooves, and the hiss of chariot wheels. Equally impressive was the Troy Museum, voted the best new museum in Europe in 2022. I highly recommend both!
The Ramsgate of Troy
However, the major highlight was a return trip for me to Ephesus. I’ve been there many times, but Seabourn challenged me to look at this amazing archeological site in a whole new way: we were treated to an unforgettable visit at night to Ephesus to enjoy a classical music concert in the Odeon by candlelight. I’ve been in the luxury travel business for over 30 years, and this is in my top 5 most astonishing experiences! Thank you to Seabourn for a truly memorable evening!
A Seabourn Signature Event: Evening Concert at Ephesus
Nestled along Turkey's Aegean coast, ancient Ephesus is one of the more captivating archaeological treasures in the Eastern Mediterranean. When I lecture on Artemis of Ephesus, I joke with the guests that I "ran a lemonade stand at the Library of Celsus,” which is entirely true: when I worked in Shore Excursions, I set up a beverage station for guests at the Library. I spent a lot of time at Ephesus in my 20s and it has been a real joy to revisit it in my 50s in my new job as Enrichment Lecturer.
Besides the magnificent concert on the grounds, I also finally got to the exceptional Archaeological Museum at Ephesus, which is a must-visit. My motivation was to see the two cult statues of Artemis, and I spent a lot of time simply gazing at them. But these are just two of the treasures this marvelous museum houses. As I write in a recent article on my website, visiting Ephesus is a long day, but if you can do both, the museum is a great way to add context to the site.
The Library of Celsus
Why Ephesus Matters?
Ephesus served as a vital crossroads of commerce, religion, and politics for over a millennium. Its strategic location near the Aegean made it an influential hub connecting trade routes across the ancient world. What began as a Greek settlement became a Roman provincial capital with 250,000 inhabitants at its peak—making it one of the Mediterranean's largest cities.
The city's most famous landmark was the Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Though only a single column remains today, this massive structure dedicated to the unique Ephesian version of Artemis (distinctly different from the Greek huntress) defined the city's identity and economy for centuries.
The Cult Statues of Artemis at Ephesus
Ephesus also played a crucial role in early Christianity. St. Paul lived here between 52-54 CE, addressing his letter to the Ephesians to the community he established. The apostle John may have lived here as well, and tradition holds that Mary, mother of Jesus, spent her final years nearby.
Must-See Highlights
The Library of Celsus: This magnificent façade was built in the 2nd century CE as both a library housing thousands of scrolls and the tomb of Celsus Polemaeanus, the Roman governor. It was the third-largest library in the ancient world after Alexandria and Pergamon.
The Great Theatre: With space for 25,000 spectators, this impressive structure hosted performances, contests, and religious ceremonies. Its excellent acoustics remain remarkable today.
The Terraced Houses: These luxurious residences of wealthy Romans feature remarkably preserved mosaics, frescoes, and sophisticated heating systems. Though requiring an additional ticket, they provide the most intimate glimpse into daily life.
Temple of Hadrian: Dedicated to Emperor Hadrian who visited in 128 CE, this ornate structure features intricate reliefs depicting Medusa and mythological scenes.
The Temple of Hadrian
Practical Tips for Visiting
Ephesus requires some preparation for the most comfortable experience. The site is largely exposed with limited shade, and summer temperatures regularly exceed 35°C (95°F).
Sun protection is essential: bring a wide-brimmed hat, sunglasses, high-SPF sunscreen, and consider a light long-sleeved shirt or portable umbrella for shade.
Stay hydrated: bring at least 1-2 liters of water per person (water is also available for purchase at entrances).
Wear proper footwear: comfortable closed walking shoes with good traction are essential, as marble streets can be slippery.
Consider trekking poles; these can make all the difference on Ephesus’s uneven pathways.
Time your visit strategically: early morning (8:00-9:00 AM) offers the best combination of mild temperatures and fewer crowds. Allocate 2-3 hours to properly explore.
Choose your route wisely: enter through the upper entrance (Magnesia Gate) for a primarily downhill exploration route.
For a truly exceptional experience, I highly recommend booking a private guide who can bring these ancient stones to life with stories and context. Several excellent tour options depart from Kusadasi or Izmir, with guides who specialize in historical, biblical, or architectural aspects of the site. I've listed a few curated experiences in the full article on my website.
She Who Endures: The Cult and Iconography of Artemis of Ephesus by Carla Ionescu: This comprehensive exploration of Ephesus's most enigmatic deity masterfully unravels the multi-breasted goddess's complex religious significance and enduring cultural impact throughout antiquity. Ionescu's meticulous research provides essential context for understanding why the Temple of Artemis became one of the Seven Wonders and how this unique cult influenced everything from Ephesian commerce to regional identity, making it an indispensable companion for travelers seeking deeper meaning beyond the archaeological remains.
The Essential Archaeological Guide to the Bible Lands by Titus Kennedy: This exceptionally well researched guide seamlessly blends archaeological expertise with accessible storytelling to illuminate the physical settings where biblical narratives unfolded. Kennedy's skilled integration of historical context, archaeological discoveries, and geographical insights transforms ancient sites like Ephesus from mere ruins into vibrant historical landscapes where visitors can visualize the intersection of Greco-Roman culture with early Christianity. I'm using the book now for research on a new talk, and it is the perfect reference manual!
The Seven Wonders of the Ancient World: A Journey Through History's Greatest Treasures by Bettany Hughes:Hughes masterfully brings the Seven Wonders to life with her signature blend of meticulous scholarship and captivating storytelling, offering readers a vivid portal into the astonishing achievements of ancient civilizations. This eloquent exploration becomes essential reading for Eastern Mediterranean travelers, as it provides crucial historical context for understanding the Temple of Artemis at Ephesus, the Colossus of Rhodes and other monumental sites that shaped the region's identity. Hughes is an engaging writer who helps visitors to see beyond mere ruins to appreciate the audacious human ingenuity and cultural significance of these wonders represented in their time.
Be sure to check in with the Destination Resources Reading Lists, which I update regularly with new books, podcasts, TV and film, and other resources designed to make your travel meaningful. I did a big update recently, changing the format to make it easier to navigate. Visit via this link!
Renoir Drawings at the Morgan Library
The Morgan Library's "Renoir Drawings" exhibition offers an intimate glimpse into the master Impressionist's creative process through rarely seen sketches that reveal his extraordinary draftsmanship and artistic evolution. Featuring almost 100 drawings spanning his entire career, this show illuminates how Renoir's pencil and chalk studies capture the sensuality, spontaneity, and joie de vivre that would later define his celebrated paintings. October 17, 2025, through February 8, 2026. Learn more.
Moderna Museet, Stockholm: Late Picasso
This extensive retrospective showcases Picasso's bold experimentation and creative vitality in his last decade, revealing how the master artist continued to reinvent himself even in his 80s and early 90s. The exhibition highlights Picasso's playful distortions of form, vibrant color palette, and psychological depth that characterize this often-overlooked period of his career, demonstrating why these late works have become increasingly influential for contemporary artists. November 22, 2025—April 5, 2026. Learn more.
The Bukhara Biennial
The inaugural Bukhara Biennial is an exciting development for this stunning Uzbek city known for Islamic architecture. The Beiennial aims to highlight Bukhara as a contemporary art destination, featuring renowned artists like Delcy Morelos alongside Central Asian talents such as Kazakh artist Gulnur Mukazhanova. This is a great excuse to visit a beautiful city that has so much to offer! September 5 to November 20, 2025. Learn more.
Bukhara, Uzbekistan
My thoughts are turning to my next contract on Seabourn Ovation in the Mediterranean and some DIY projects I want to tackle at home in 2026, and somehow these two ideas fused into one sprawling list: Mediterranean Home Wishlist. Here are some of the highlights, and you can see the full 100 items in the collection here.
I love “pea green” anything, and this SERENA & LILY Mendocino Linen Throw is the perfect pop of this signature color to add texture to a quiet snug.
I’m slightly obsessed with ancient glass at the moment — I'm getting up a head of steam to do a talk on the history of glass — and this PORTA Carlotta Vase reminds me of so many beautiful vases I saw last month in the Adriatic.
What is more Mediterranean than a stone table? Perfect for those long al fresco lunches that bridge the gap between afternoon and early evening. This OLIVE ATELIERS Cast Round Dining Table makes me want to set the table and pull up a chair!
These PORTA Artichoke Small Plates are perfect for serving almost anything from bread to olives…or even artichokes themselves. I want a dozen!
I believe you can never have too many sets of salt and pepper dispensers, and I’m in love with the bold blue of the Theo Pepper Mill and Salt Shaker from Porta. Perfect on the stone table for long lunches!
I’ve been on the hunt for a wicker swan container for decades, having failed numerous times to swipe my mom’s very elegant one. The hunt is over! This Juliska Provence Rattan Swan Basket is on my wish list!
I get panicky when I’m out of ice, so this Permasteel 14-quart Small Portable Cooler is exactly the anti-anxiety solution. I love the crisp light blue and elegant chrome fittings. Perfect for tailgating or just keeping ice within reach on the patio. Phew.
If a cooler seems too much, you can’t go wrong with an elegant ice bucket. This elegant Tulum Ice Bucket and Tongs from SERENA & LILY would look lovely on the patio, at picnics, or just tucked away in a corner of the kitchen. You can never have too much ice…
Can you ever have too many baskets? I don’t think so. I want several of these OLIVE ATELIERS French Laundry Baskets for our flat in Riga: for linens, yes, but also logs, files, root vegetables, towels, and all the flotsam and jetsam of life.
I see this Evermore Sling-Back chair and I want to sink into it with a month’s worth of back issues of The New Yorker. What a sophisticated blend of wrought iron and cloth. Very elegant both outside and inside.
I’m constantly buying and using lemons, limes, and oranges, and they are too lovely to keep in the fridge. I pile them into a basket and keep them on the counter. This Spicchio Citrus Basket would take things very much to the next level: it’s the perfect shape and size for my citrus stash!
That is it for this week! I’ll be traveling for much of today back to Riga, polishing up my Spanish, Italian, and French talks for the next six weeks on Seabourn Ovation. I’m looking forward to two visits to Malta, Carthage in Tunisia, having my beloved boquerones for every lunch on shore, seeing St. Tropez for the first time, seeing dear friends in Valencia, and getting to work on some new talks on Bordeaux, Norwegian Arctic explorers, the Normans, and French cuisine! Marvelous topics to research and write about from my daytime perch on Deck 8 on the Solis Veranda.
I’ve added an exciting itinerary to my 2027 schedule: a river cruise in France with Smithsonian Journeys! I’m delighted to be on their team of Experts and really looking forward to discovering more about the Seine. I’ve added it to my cruise calendar, which you can access here.
As a subscriber to the Destination Curation Newsletter, you have access to my cruise schedule, which you can visit here. If any of these voyages align with your travel plans, I'd love to share the journey with you!
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I am a food and travel writer as well as a cruise ship enrichment speaker: my passion is exploring the cuisine, history, and culture of new places and writing about them here in my free bi-weekly (twice monthly) Destination Curation newsletter where I look at the intersection of history, culture, and cuisine in major destinations.
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