I am a food and travel writer as well as a cruise ship enrichment speaker: my passion is exploring the cuisine, history, and culture of new places and writing about them here in my free bi-weekly (twice monthly) Destination Curation newsletter where I look at the intersection of history, culture, and cuisine in major destinations.
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🇮🇸 Intriguing Iceland
Published 2 months ago • 12 min read
July 6, 2025
Greetings from wonderful Iceland! While the rest of Europe languishes in a heat wave, we have been getting good use out of our woolen socks and down vests! Our time on Seabourn Sojourn has been truly enjoyable.
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This is a lovely ship with a superb crew. A real treat is Deborah Dyer singing in the Observation Bar each evening. I first met Deborah on Ovation, where she worked in the Solis Bar — always a favorite after-dinner haunt. I love her voice and her musical range!
I want to extend a special welcome to all the new subscribers: it is lovely to have you here as part of this growing community of curious travelers. Thank you for your interest and welcome on board!
We made our way back from Norway to Scotland, with stops in Invergordon and a beautiful sunny day in Lerwick on the Shetland Islands. After a magical crossing to Iceland with amazing sunsets and pods of dolphins frolicking alongside the ship (the luckiest of omens for sailors!) we arrived at Djúpivogur, where I always relish a long walk through the craggy hills and rocks, with their carpet of wild flowers. A visit to Eggin í Gleðivík or 'The Eggs of Merry Bay' is also a must! This is one of the most notable outdoor art installations in Djúpivogur, comprising enlarged replicas of 34 eggs of bird species that nest in the area.
Vestmannaeyjar
We continued on to Vestmannaeyjar or the Westman Islands, which was en fete, with the annual “Celebration of the End of the Eruption.” A good thing to celebrate!
The Westman Islands (Vestmannaeyjar) experienced one of Iceland's most dramatic natural disasters when the volcano Eldfell erupted unexpectedly on January 23, 1973. The eruption began in the early hours of the morning, sending fountains of lava and ash skyward from a fissure that opened less than a kilometer from the town of Heimaey, the archipelago's only populated island, where we are docked as I write this.
What makes the 1973 eruption particularly remarkable was the community's response. When residents were awakened by the thundering sounds of the eruption and the rain of volcanic debris, a well-coordinated evacuation immediately begun. Happily, the island's entire fishing fleet was in harbor because of inclement weather the previous day; nearly all 5,300 inhabitants were safely transported to the mainland within hours.
Perhaps the most ingenious aspect of the response to the volcano’s eruption was Iceland's response to the advancing lava that threatened to close the harbor, which was the community’s primary source of income.
In what is “now called the battle to save the harbor," Icelanders pumped seawater onto the flowing lava to cool and solidify it, effectively creating a barrier that protected the harbor entrance. This marked the first time humans had successfully altered the course of a volcanic eruption, demonstrating Iceland's resilience and innovative spirit in the face of nature's raw power.
By the time the eruption ended in July 1973, about 400 buildings had been destroyed, buried under lava and ash. Yet remarkably, only one person lost their life. Today, visitors to Heimaey can see homes partially buried in volcanic material at the Eldheimar Museum, which preserves this dramatic chapter of Iceland's history. The eruption actually improved the harbor by providing better shelter from the Atlantic winds and enlarged the island by about 20%, creating dramatic new landscapes that have become popular tourist attractions.
📸 Tom Simkin | 📸 Wilford Peloquin
Spotlight on: Iceland: The Land of Fire and Ice
I love Iceland and have since I first visited the country for the Iceland Writers’ Retreat in 2015. I never tire of visiting this land of stories, legends and sagas! With its dramatic landscapes of steaming geothermal pools, thundering waterfalls, and stark volcanic plains, Iceland offers cruise passengers a chance to experience nature at its most elemental. And I think perhaps this is the appeal of Iceland: a rich cultural heritage combined with stunning natural beauty. The two seem intertwined.
A Glimpse into Iceland's Storied Past
Iceland's history is as dramatic as its landscape, and I’ve been exploring this aspect of Iceland with our guests as we crossed the Atlantic from Scotland to Iceland.
First settled by Norse Vikings in the 9th century, the country's narrative begins with explorers like Flóki Vilgerðarson, who gave Iceland its name as a curse after his livestock perished after a harsh winter. These early settlers established the world's oldest parliaments, the Althing, in 930 CE, marking the beginning of the Icelandic Commonwealth.
Through centuries of foreign rule under Norway and later Denmark, Icelanders maintained their distinct cultural identity and language, preserving ancient sagas that chronicle the nation's early history. It wasn't until June 17, 1944, that Iceland finally achieved complete independence, emerging as the modern republic visitors encounter today.
This rich historical tapestry is evident throughout Reykjavik, where the National Museum of Iceland offers cruise passengers an illuminating journey through the island's past, from Viking settlements to contemporary culture. The museum's thoughtfully curated exhibits showcase remarkable artifacts like the Valþjófsstaður Door, a 13th-century carved wooden door depicting medieval tales, and various religious sculptures that highlight Iceland's transition from paganism to Christianity. This is high on the list of my recommendations in my new 8-Hour Guide to Reykjavik.
Exploring Reykjavik: Gateway to Icelandic Adventure
With most cruise ships docking just 4 kilometers from downtown at Sundahöfn Commercial Harbour, Reykjavik's compact center is easily accessible by shuttle, taxi, or even on foot. The city's walkable scale makes it perfect for travelers with limited time, allowing you to experience several of the city’s many highlights in just a few hours.
Begin your exploration at Hallgrímskirkja, whose distinctive stepped concrete façade draws inspiration from Iceland's basalt columns. From the tower's observation deck, panoramic views reveal the city's colorful rooftops and the surrounding mountains and sea. The statue of Leif Erikson standing proudly before the church commemorates the Norse explorer believed to have been the first European to discover North America — another topic I explore with our guests in “The Vikings Head West.”
Art enthusiasts flock to the Reykjavik Art Museum - Hafnarhús, housed in a converted harbor warehouse. The museum showcases contemporary Icelandic artists alongside international creators, with a significant collection dedicated to the works of Erró, one of Iceland's most celebrated artists.
For a touch of the unusual, visit the Icelandic Phallological Museum, a quirky attraction that offers an educational—if eyebrow-raising—exploration of mammalian reproductive biology. It's a perfect example of the unique Icelandic humor that visitors often find so endearing.
Culinary Delights: Tasting Iceland
Iceland's culinary history is another favorite lecture topic. This is a story of a nation that has transformed scarcity into creativity. Traditional Icelandic cuisine developed under harsh conditions, with preservation methods like drying, smoking, and fermenting necessary for survival. Today, innovative chefs blend these time-honored techniques with modern approaches, creating a distinctive food culture that no traveler should overlook!
No culinary exploration of Reykjavik would be complete without sampling the city's famous hot dog at Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur. These hot dogs, made primarily from Icelandic lamb with some pork and beef, are traditionally served "ein með öllu" (with everything)—ketchup, sweet mustard, remoulade, crispy fried onions, and raw onions.
My first stop is always The Seabaron (Sægreifinn) near the old harbor for their legendary lobster soup. Founded by former fisherman and coast guard chef Kjartan Halldórsson, this humble eatery serves generous chunks of langoustine in a rich, flavorful broth that has become a must-try for visitors.
Visit my comprehensive guide to Iceland’s Cuisine: The Must-Try Things to Eat and Drink in Iceland, with a free downloadable Restaurant Guide to some of my favorite restaurants in Reykjavik and around Iceland.
Just 20 minutes from Keflavík International Airport, the Blue Lagoon is one of Iceland's most iconic attractions. This geothermal spa, with its striking milky-blue waters set against a backdrop of dark lava fields, offers a uniquely Icelandic experience that blends relaxation with natural wonder.
The lagoon's origin story is fascinating—it formed as runoff from the neighboring Svartsengi geothermal power plant, where hot water is pumped from deep beneath the Earth's surface. Rather than waste this mineral-rich water, resourceful Icelanders transformed it into one of the world's more unique bathing experiences.
Visitors float in warm waters (37-39°C/98-102°F) rich in minerals like silica and sulfur, known for their skin-enhancing properties. The famous silica mud mask, available to all guests, exfoliates and rejuvenates, leaving skin smooth and refreshed.
Iceland captivates visitors with its remarkable contrasts—fire and ice, ancient history and cutting-edge design, rugged landscapes and refined culture. Cruising is a wonderful way to see many parts of the country in a short time. It’s now much easier to explore the country by car, and that is another great way to experience a land where nature's forces are palpably present, where centuries-old traditions blend seamlessly with modern innovation, and where even a brief visit leaves an indelible impression.
This island at the edge of the Arctic Circle may be Europe's last settled country, but for many travelers, it becomes the first destination they plan to revisit.
No trip to Iceland is complete without delving into the The Sagas of Icelanders: (Penguin Classics Deluxe Edition). Happily now available on Kindle, because this is a doorstop of a book! This Penguin edition has a marvelous introduction by Jane Smiley that helps to explain what the sagas are the immense role they have played in world literature and culture.
Be sure to check in with the Destination Resources Reading Lists, which I update regularly with new books, podcasts, TV and film, and other resources designed to make your travel meaningful. I did a big update recently, changing the format to make it easier to navigate. Visit via this link!
New & Noteworthy
The Shetland Museum and Archive
I was delighted to revisit Lerwick, the major urban center in the Shetland Islands. After the obligatory visit to the most famous house in Scotland — the home of fictional detective Jimmy Perez, Dmitry and I headed to the Shetland Museum and Archives, which I’d wanted to visit for some time.
The Shetland Museum and Archives is a superb museum, offering a captivating chronicle of the Shetland Islands' rich heritage, housed in a waterfront building at Hay's Dock in Lerwick.
This award-winning facility seamlessly blends historical artifacts with interactive exhibits, offering visitors a comprehensive journey through the archipelago's fascinating past—from its geological formation and Viking settlements to its maritime traditions and distinctive cultural identity.
The museum's meticulously curated collections showcase everything from delicate Shetland lace and Fair Isle knitwear to fishing equipment and archaeological treasures, while the archives preserve invaluable historical documents, photographs, and recordings. With its engaging displays, regular and special exhibitions, and knowledgeable staff, the Shetland Museum provides travelers with an excellent introduction to this remarkable region. It is an essential stop for anyone seeking to understand the unique character of this remote corner of Scotland. Learn more.
The National Museum of Iceland
Nestled in Reykjavik’s heart, The National Museum of Iceland is a marvelous gateway into the island’s rich history and culture. If you want to get a sense of the arc of Iceland’s rich history, head to these well-curated exhibits, to be immersed in Iceland’s transformation from Viking settlements to a modern nation. The atmosphere is captivating, with artifacts ranging from ancient tools to intricate medieval manuscripts. Here, stories of resilience and innovation come alive, connecting you deeply with the Icelandic spirit. Learn more.
I’m hoping to have time on this visit to Reykjavik to visit The Northern Lights Center to learn more about the aurora borealis before my trip around Norway in February and March on Viking Vela.
The Northern Lights Center is an ingenious blend of science, mythology, and interactive technology. This innovative space features a spectacular aurora simulation theater where the ethereal dance of the northern lights is recreated in stunning detail, complete with expert narration explaining the scientific principles behind these celestial phenomena.
I will certainly stock up on Blue Lagoon Skincare while I’m here in Iceland. I love this silica based skincare line. They are also available online.
I have frequently caused a run on Arctic Thyme flavored Icelandic Salt, because I wax lyrical about how good it is on everything! You can find this and other excellent Icelandic salts at the Nordic Catch Icelandic Sea Salt
Iceland is not only a land of storytellers, it is also a land of knitters! And there is no better place to learn about this time-honored craft than at Handprjónasambandið or the Handknitting Association of Iceland. This is the ultimate destination for authentic hand-knitted Icelandic wool products. Here you’ll find the widest selection of traditional lopapeysa sweaters, along with hats, mittens, and other woolen goods. Many items are handmade by local knitters using Icelandic wool, which is also available for purchase. If you can’t make it to Iceland, visit their website for clothing, yarn, and all manner of knitting lore.
I confess I’m frustrated at the moment! I have so much that I want to work on, and there just isn’t enough time in the day. When I was still living in Massachusetts and very keen to break into the Enrichment Speaker game, I got up most mornings at 4:00 am to work on research. This was during COVID and we had both my parents and my daughter living with us, as well as a new puppy. The quiet time in the morning was a good time for deep work.
Now, it’s just Dima and me in a small stateroom on a cruise ship. I don’t have to wash dishes, do laundry, or any kind of housework. Yes, I have commitments on board, and I take full advantage of exploring the places we visit. Still, I’m finding it very hard to carve out those three-hour blocks I speak about, and I try to grab an hour here and there to get things done, but I don’t enter the “flow” state very often.
I’m not sure what the solution is. I know that women, particularly, aren’t good at making the time that creativity demands.
Maybe the 4:00 am thing is the only viable option.
I’d love to know your thoughts on this issue. Do you struggle to make time for your creative work? Have you found a workaround that gets you the time you need?
We are next headed to northern Iceland with calls in Isafjordur, Akyreryi, Vopnafjordur, and then onward to the Orkney Islands (always a treat) before returning to Dover and beginning a new segment in Norway.
I will lecture on Icelandic Cuisine, the Icelandic Sagas, Viking Women, Mary Queen of Scots, and British History. All topics to relish!
As a subscriber to the Destination Curation Newsletter, you have access to my cruise schedule, which you can visit here. If any of these voyages align with your travel plans, I'd love to share the journey with you!
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I am a food and travel writer as well as a cruise ship enrichment speaker: my passion is exploring the cuisine, history, and culture of new places and writing about them here in my free bi-weekly (twice monthly) Destination Curation newsletter where I look at the intersection of history, culture, and cuisine in major destinations.
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