I am a food and travel writer as well as a cruise ship enrichment speaker: my passion is exploring the cuisine, history, and culture of new places and writing about them here in my free bi-weekly (twice monthly) Destination Curation newsletter where I look at the intersection of history, culture, and cuisine in major destinations.
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🇭🇷 Dazzling Dubrovnik: Pearl of the Adriatic
Published 10 days ago • 13 min read
September 7, 2025
Greetings!
Greetings from stunning Dubrovnik in the splendid Adriatic! We’ve been here for 4 wonderful days, staying at the Dubrovnik Palace Hotel, which has provided us with the perfect blend of sun and sea, with easy access (15 minutes by a bus that stops just outside the hotel) to the Old City. It’s been a great end-of-summer pause before an almost solid 3 months of work on board Seabourn Encore and Ovation.
I knew I needed more time in Dubrovnik than just 8 hours — ironically to finish writing my newest 8 hour guide to Dubrovnik. It’s been at least a decade since I was last here and while the Old City remains as stalwart as it ever was, the crowds have swelled, thanks to Dubrovnik’s 21st-century starring role as King’s Landing in the Game of Thrones series. Fan that I am, I kept a surreptitious list of filming locations in my notebook as I did my “proper” research for the new piece.
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As you read this, we will sail from Dubrovnik towards the stunning island of Korcula, and making other stops at Zadar, Kotor, Koper, and Hvar. I’m really looking forward to this two-week stint in the Adriatic: I spent much of February and March learning about the history, culture, and cuisine, and I’m eager to get out and see everything!
I’m excited to announce that I will start a program of live online lectures in 2026. I’m working on the final schedule, but these will be live lectures of around 60 minutes (I’m giving myself back that elusive 15 minutes I don’t get on board). I will hold them on Zoom for a small fee, and they will include a live Q&A at the end — something else we don’t always have time for on board.
I’m excited about sharing more of my lectures with you, and I hope you are too. I know this may not be to everyone’s taste, so I will set up a new mailing list dedicated to announcements about upcoming live lectures. If you would like to be included in this new mailing list, please click on the button below. I respect your inbox, and I don’t want to fill it up with anything that isn’t relevant.
Perched dramatically on the sparkling Adriatic coast, Dubrovnik’s power relied on its protected position between the island of Lokrum and Mount Srđ. Today, this perfectly combines breathtaking natural beauty, rich cultural heritage, and remarkably preserved medieval architecture. Known as the "Pearl of the Adriatic" and designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Dubrovnik serves up fascinating history, rich art and architecture, and a vibrant modern vibe that is all its own.
Historical Timeline: From Ragusa to Dubrovnik
Dubrovnik's story begins in the 7th century when refugees from nearby Epidaurum (modern-day Cavtat) settled on a rocky island called Laus, which later became known as Ragusa. By the 12th century, the settlement had expanded to the mainland and emerged as a maritime power.
The city reached its golden age during the 15th and 16th centuries as the Republic of Ragusa, a sophisticated maritime state that rivaled Venice. Despite its small size, Ragusa maintained independence through skillful diplomacy, balancing relationships with powerful neighbors like the Ottoman Empire and the Venetian Republic.
After Napoleon dissolved the Ragusan Republic in 1808, the city fell under various rules—French, Austrian, and eventually becoming part of Yugoslavia after World War I. During the Croatian War of Independence (1991-1995), Dubrovnik suffered significant damage from bombardment but has since been meticulously restored to its former glory.
These layers of history have created a unique look and feel to Dubrovnik: Byzantine churches brush up against Venetian Gothic, with hints of Ottoman visible in the side streets. I find it endlessly fascinating and can wander around the Old City for hours. It’s almost impossible to get lost, but I’ve done my best.
Must-See Historical Sites
The Old Town, completely encircled by massive stone walls stretching nearly 2 kilometers, forms the heart of Dubrovnik's historical experience. Walking these 13th-century walls provides spectacular views of the city's terracotta rooftops contrasting with the azure sea.
In my new piece, I provide a Self-Guided Walking Tour of the Old City, which you can download here:
Stradun (Placa), the limestone-paved main street running through the center of the Old Town, connects the eastern gate (Ploče) with the western entrance (Pile). Lined with baroque buildings, this pedestrian thoroughfare buzzes with cafés and shops and serves as the city's social hub.
The Rector's Palace, once home to the elected rector (governor) of the Republic, showcases an architectural blend of Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque styles. Today, it houses the Cultural History Museum, displaying furniture, paintings, and artifacts from Dubrovnik's aristocratic past. I spent a very enjoyable afternoon there.
The Rector's Palace, Dubrovnik
The Franciscan Monastery complex contains one of Europe's oldest functioning pharmacies, established in 1317. The monastery's museum displays ancient medical manuscripts and pharmacy equipment, while its beautiful cloister offers a peaceful retreat from the bustling streets.
Sponza Palace, a 16th-century former customs house and mint, survived the 1667 earthquake that devastated much of the city. Its blend of Gothic and Renaissance styles houses the State Archives with documents dating back to the 12th century.
Dubrovnik Cathedral, dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, stands on the site of several previous churches. The current baroque structure dates from the early 18th century and houses a treasury with reliquaries, including fragments believed to be from Jesus' cross.
Cultural Experiences
Beyond architectural marvels, Dubrovnik offers rich cultural experiences. The Dubrovnik Summer Festival (July-August) transforms the entire city into a stage for theater, music, and dance performances against historic backdrops.
Local cuisine reflects the city's coastal location and diverse historical influences. Seafood dominates menus, prepared simply with olive oil and Mediterranean herbs. Don't miss local specialties like black risotto colored with cuttlefish ink, or rozata, a flan-like dessert flavored with rose liqueur.
For literary enthusiasts, Dubrovnik was home to Croatia's most celebrated poet, Ivan Gundulić, whose statue adorns Gundulić Square. The city's maritime and literary heritage is celebrated in various museums and cultural centers throughout the Old Town.
Practical Tips for Visitors
While Dubrovnik can be explored in a day, allowing at least two full days provides time to appreciate the city properly. The wall walk takes approximately two hours and is best done in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid midday heat and crowds.
Consider visiting during the shoulder seasons (April- early May or late September-October) when the climate remains pleasant but tourist numbers are significantly lower than in peak summer months. It’s the first week in September, and while the weather is gorgeous, the streets still thronging with tourists.
For panoramic views beyond the city walls, take the cable car to Mount Srđ. From this vantage point, you'll understand why George Bernard Shaw famously said, "Those who seek paradise on Earth should come to Dubrovnik."
Dubrovnik's combination of historical depth, architectural beauty, and Mediterranean ambiance creates an unforgettable destination for culturally curious travelers. As you walk its ancient streets, you're not just visiting a beautifully preserved medieval city—you're experiencing a living museum where history continues to unfold against one of Europe's most spectacular backdrops.
I wanted to share with you three books that have shaped my understanding of this remarkable region:
Robert Kaplan's Adriatic: A Concert of Civilizations at the End of the Modern Age offers a masterful exploration of the cultural, historical, and geopolitical significance of the Adriatic Sea region, weaving together past and present through insightful observations and personal journeys. Kaplan's narrative traverses the diverse societies that have flourished along these shores, from Venice to Corfu, examining how geography has shaped destiny throughout centuries of turbulent history. With his characteristic blend of travelogue, historical analysis, and political commentary, Kaplan provides readers with a nuanced understanding of this crucial Mediterranean crossroads where East meets West.
Robin Harris's Dubrovnik: A History presents the definitive chronicle of the remarkable city-republic that maintained its independence and prosperity for centuries despite being surrounded by powerful empires. Harris meticulously traces Dubrovnik's evolution from its early medieval origins through its golden age as the sophisticated Republic of Ragusa to its eventual decline and modern resurrection as a cultural treasure. This authoritative work balances scholarly rigor with accessible prose, making it essential reading for anyone seeking to understand the complex history behind Dubrovnik's stunning facades.
If a Kindle book could be dogeared, my copy of Rebecca West's monumental Black Lamb and Grey Falcon would be in digital tatters. This magnificent book has been my companion for the past 3 months as I prepared for my journey to the Adriatic. I’m hesitant to call it a mere “travelogue,” because it presents an entire canvas of Yugoslavia on the eve of World War II through the author's extensive journeys throughout the region. West's keen observations of Balkan history, politics, art, and daily life are interwoven with philosophical reflections on nationalism, violence, and the human condition. This extraordinary work, though published in 1941, remains remarkably relevant for understanding the cultural complexities and historical tensions that continue to shape the Adriatic region today.
Be sure to check in with the Destination Resources Reading Lists, which I update regularly with new books, podcasts, TV and film, and other resources designed to make your travel meaningful. I did a big update recently, changing the format to make it easier to navigate. Visit via this link!
Maritime Museum of Dubrovnik
Housed in St. John's Fortress, this museum showcases Dubrovnik's rich maritime history through ship models, navigational instruments, and maritime artifacts spanning centuries. The collection highlights the importance of seafaring to the Republic of Ragusa's prosperity and includes detailed maps and documents from the city's golden age. Visitors can explore exhibits on naval battles, merchant vessels, and the development of maritime technology that made Dubrovnik a formidable naval power.
Address: St. John's Fortress, Od Sv. Dominika 2, 20000 Dubrovnik, Croatia
Located in the magnificent Rector's Palace, this museum offers a glimpse into the lavish lifestyle of Dubrovnik's aristocracy through its collection of furniture, paintings, coins, and ceremonial artifacts. The museum's rooms are arranged to reflect different historical periods, with particular attention to the Republic of Ragusa's governance and diplomatic relations. The ornate Council Chamber and elegant atrium provide a perfect setting for understanding the sophisticated political and cultural life of historical Dubrovnik.
Address: Rector's Palace, Pred Dvorom 3, 20000 Dubrovnik, Croatia
This 14th-century monastery complex houses one of Europe's oldest continuously operating pharmacies (since 1317) alongside a precious library containing over 20,000 books and manuscripts. The monastery museum displays religious artifacts, pharmaceutical items, and illuminated manuscripts created by the monks over centuries. Visitors can enjoy the serene Renaissance cloister with its ornate columns and central garden, offering a peaceful retreat from the bustling streets of the Old Town.
Address: Placa 2, 20000 Dubrovnik, Croatia
Unsurprisingly, I’m inspired this week by all things Adriatic! I’ve enjoyed browsing Dubrovnik’s wonderful jewelry shops with their silver and gold filigree and coral pieces. These gorgeous coral-inspired earrings evoke this important local treasure, and these Ippolita earrings are the perfect addition to any Adriatic ensemble (see all my picks on my Shopmy Adriatic and Aegean-inspired collection)!
I always love everything from White + Warren, and this sleeveless sweater and this V-neck suggest “nautical” without hitting you over the head with it — perfect for the Mediterranean, as is this LAKE Lydia Cotton sweater in dusty blue.
My mother often says I will come back in a future life as a separate zippered compartment — I’m that fond of bags and containers. I would not mind spending my next life as this Shelby Train Case or this Aspinal of London Jewelry Box. I rely heavily on my Rimowa Trunk when I’m away for over 4 weeks, but this monster mandates keeping items wrangled in packing cubes and other containers.
I’m hijaking the Creative Corner again to bring you one of my favorite end-of-summer recipes. Longtime readers of this newsletter know what a tomato snob I am, and I spent much of August having tomatoes with every meal. If it is still tomato season where you are, try this lovely galette, which comes together easily and quickly and can easily hold its own as the centerpiece of a lunch or dinner.
Ricotta, Feta & Tomato Galette
Ingredients for one 10-inch galette
For the dough:
1 1/2-cups (350 ml) all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons corn meal or potato flour
1/2 teaspoon fine salt
1/2 cup (118 grams) unsalted butter, cut into small cubes, then frozen in the freezer for at least 20 minutes
2 Tbls vodka
1/4 cup (60 ml) ice water
For the filling:
6 oz (170 grams) of tvorog, cottage cheese, or ricotta
2 oz (56 grams) of grated Sulguni cheese or a sharp ricotta salata or Feta cheese
1 egg and 1 egg yolk
⅔-cup (150 ml) of a mix of fresh herbs: parsley, basil, mint, tarragon
Place the flours and salt into food processor fitted with a steel blade, and pulse a few times to combine.
Add the butter cubes and pulse rapidly 6-8 times until the flour and butter turn into small pebbles. Do not over mix.
Add the liquids in a slow, steady stream until just combined. Turn the dough onto a well-floured surface and shape into a round, flat disc. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least an hour.
Line a baking sheet or tray with several layers of paper towel. Place the sliced tomatoes on the prepared surface and sprinkle lightly with salt. Toss the cherry tomatoes, if using, with the teaspoon of salt and add to the tray, cut side facing down. Set aside.
Preheat the oven to 425ºF (220ºC).
Place the ricotta and Feta in the food processor and combine until smooth. Add the egg yolk, herbs, anchovy, mustard and pepper and pulse to combine. Refrigerate until you are ready to use.
Pat the tomatoes lightly with more paper towel to soak up their juice.
Roll the dough out to ⅛-inch thickness on a well-floured surface, then place on a baking sheet or pizza stone. Spread the tvorog mixture over the surface of the dough, leaving a 1-½-inch circumference around the outer edge.
Arrange 2 cups of the tomatoes over the tvorog mixture, reserving the remaining cup to decorate after the galette has cooked and cooled. Bring the edges of the dough up over the tomatoes, crimping them together in pleats.
Beat the remaining egg together with 2 teaspoons of water and brush the mixture over the dough.
Bake the galette for 30 minutes, rotating it 180 degrees halfway through to ensure that it cooks evenly.
Allow the galette to cool completely before eating.
Garnish the cooked and cooled galette with the remaining tomatoes and chopped basil.
That’s about it for this week — I hope this has inspired you to think about traveling to Croatia and the Adriatic, if only in the new books on the Destination Curation Reading Lists. I’ll be posting more about our time here on Facebook and Instagram and look forward to connecting there as well.
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I am a food and travel writer as well as a cruise ship enrichment speaker: my passion is exploring the cuisine, history, and culture of new places and writing about them here in my free bi-weekly (twice monthly) Destination Curation newsletter where I look at the intersection of history, culture, and cuisine in major destinations.
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