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Greetings!
Coming to you today from lovely Honningsvag, Norway for our second fjord cruise of the season. Once again, we are on the top of the world and have forgotten what a dark night looks like!
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We’re enjoying magical weather and have been so lucky to enjoy scenic cruising while dining and enjoying chatting with other guests on several evenings. My Norway talks have gone well. I’ve found the time and discipline to get a lot of work done as well as continue to forage for new ideas on shore, and I’m feeling very good about this entire contract on Seabourn Sojourn.
There have been several highlights in the past few weeks, including a return visit to Tromso’s splendid Museum of Polar Exploration, which I describe in What to do in Tromsø? | An 8-Hour-Guide. My return visit is part of my preparation to join Viking Vela in February for a month back in Norway. Im researching polar exploration for a new talk I plan to give on each section of this month-long voyage. The museum is so well done, and, when combined with a lovely lunch of -- what else? fiskesuppe -- is the perfect day (for me) in lovely Tromso.
One of my major goals for this year was to reconnect with old friends. Our peripatetic life makes this both easy and difficult. Being constantly on the move makes it difficult to develop new friendships, but it facilitates reconnecting with old friends. I had a gorgeous reunion with my university friend, Katie at the glorious Updown Farmhouse near Dover, which is so splendid you should just drop everything and book a table or an overnight there now! It was the ideal summer’s day in England, the kind that makes you sure there is no better place to be!
Katie and I picked up the threads immediately, finished each other's sentences, laughed about our time in Russia (no easy feat these days) and it was a thoroughly enjoyable afternoon and perhaps the very best way to spend the turnaround day in Dover!
We will disembark in Rotterdam at the end of next week, and head home to Riga for a brief period before heading out again to Verona for a birthday bash of a good friend prior to an entire month off!
I was scheduled to write “8 Hours in Rotterdam” for this week, but as I pored over my research notes from a year ago, I noticed that most of them were about Dutch cheese!! I leaned in, drawing on the 2-day deep dive I did into the subject on a layover in Amsterdam last year. And then I dredged up some notes from an online course I took on Belgian cheeses and just like that, two entirely unplanned pieces emerged on Dutch Cheese and Belgian Cheese. Highlights of the stories below, and I hope you’ll enjoy reading the full pieces. It was truly fun to research and write both!
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Spotlight on: The Rich History of Belgian and Dutch Cheesemaking
It was perhaps foolhardy to think that Amsterdam would not be crowded in July, but I was taken aback last year to find I had to use my elbows to navigate some of the city’s more popular venues. I’ve been to Amsterdam a few times and decided I would eschew the overcrowded museums, canals, and other attractions and devote myself to learning more about Dutch cheese. Dmitry was game, and we booked several excursions, researched the less touristy, more storied shops and markets and had a marvelous three days, which we have not disclosed to our GP (always concerned about our cholesterol!)
The story that emerges goes back to the Middle Ages and is a key pillar (no pun intended) in the story of the Low Countries' innovative water management, which has paved the way for the distinct cheese traditions that today characterize The Netherlands, Belgium, and Luxembourg.
One cannot understand Belgian and Dutch cheese without first appreciating the remarkable landscape where it all began. There is a popular saying in the Low Countries: "God created the world, but the Dutch created the Netherlands." This adage describes the extraordinary feat of land reclamation that transformed the region and laid the foundation for its dairy excellence.
Beginning in the Middle Ages, inhabitants of the lowlands developed sophisticated systems of dikes, windmills, and drainage canals to reclaim land from the sea. These reclaimed wetlands, known as polders, proved exceptionally suitable for dairy farming. The rich soil composition with its unique mineral composition is a key element in the fantastic cheese of the region. Centuries of marine deposits, combined with freshwater influence, created pastures unusually rich in trace minerals and nutrients.
The story of Belgian cheese begins within the stone walls of its ancient monasteries. From the 9th century onward, monks seeking self-sufficiency began crafting cheese to preserve milk and provide sustenance. These early cheeses were simple, often unpasteurized, and made using traditional methods passed down through generations.
The Cistercian and Cluniac orders established monasteries throughout present-day Belgium from the 12th century onward. The monks were accomplished sheep herders and farmers and established their houses near the fertile polders. The Trappist monks who pioneered many of Belgium's classic cheeses weren't simply cheese-makers—they were skilled land managers who understood the relationship between soil health, animal welfare, and food quality.
Monasteries like Chimay and Orval developed sustainable farming practices that maintained the exceptional quality of their pastureland. This monastic approach to land stewardship reflected their philosophy of care for creation and self-sufficiency. The monks recognized that exceptional cheese required exceptional milk, which in turn demanded careful management of their grazing lands.
While monastic traditions were more prominent in Belgium, Dutch cheese was primarily developed through farming communities and trade markets. By the 17th century Dutch Golden Age, cheese had become an important commodity carried to colonies and distant markets by Dutch ships. This extensive trade helped create a demand for distinct types like Gouda and Edam, which took their names from the cities that served as trading hubs.
The distinctive milk used in Belgian cheese-making comes primarily from two cattle breeds: the indigenous Belgian Blue and the Holstein-Friesian. Originally bred as a dual-purpose animal for both meat and dairy, Belgian Blue cows produce milk with higher protein content and a unique fatty acid profile that lends Belgian cheese its characteristic richness and creamy texture.
In the Netherlands, high-quality cow's milk, often sourced from specialized dairy farms committed to specific grazing regimens, forms the foundation of Dutch cheese. The quality of milk is carefully monitored to ensure optimum fat and protein content, crucial for proper curd formation. In some traditional varieties, raw milk is used to preserve the nuanced characteristics imparted by local flora.
The microclimate created by the polder system also plays a role in dairy quality. The numerous waterways surrounding these reclaimed lands help moderate temperature extremes, protecting dairy cattle from severe weather. This stable environment, combined with the excellent drainage provided by the canal systems, means that cattle can graze longer throughout the year, leading to higher milk production and better quality dairy products.
Belgian cheese presents remarkable diversity, from the monastery-crafted varieties with centuries of history to modern artisanal creations. Abbey cheeses like Chimay, produced at Scourmont Abbey since 1876, exemplify the monastic tradition. Meanwhile, regional varieties like Herve, Belgium's oldest cheese dating back to the Middle Ages, and Passendale from West Flanders showcase different local techniques and flavors.
Dutch cheese varieties span from young cheese (jonge kaas) to aged cheeses like extra belegen and oude kaas. The aging process creates distinct textures and flavors - young Gouda offers a creamy texture and sweet taste, while aged Gouda develops a firm texture with a nutty flavor and protein crystals that create a pleasant crunch.
Both countries share an appreciation for the meticulous aging process, or affinage, where cheeses truly transform, developing layered aromas and complex tastes. Depending on the cheese, aging can last from a few weeks to several years in climate-controlled rooms where temperature and humidity are meticulously regulated.
Today, both Belgian and Dutch cheese-making traditions are experiencing a renaissance. While maintaining deep respect for historical techniques, contemporary cheese-makers are embracing sustainability, new flavors, and technology to propel these legacies forward without sacrificing authenticity.
The story of Belgian and Dutch cheese is ultimately one of remarkable resilience and adaptation. From the medieval engineering that created the polders to the monastic dedication that perfected aging techniques, to today's innovative producers balancing tradition with sustainability—these cheeses embody centuries of human ingenuity transformed into one of life's most sublime pleasures.
For a more detailed history of both traditions, a list of key cheese brands, and access to a list of the best cheese markets and shops in major Dutch and Belgian cities, visit:
The Ultimate Guide to Exploring the Best Dutch Cheese
How to Explore Classic Belgian Cheese in Belgium
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3 New Additions to Destination Resources
Why The Dutch Are Different When I set out to create my talk on Dutch History (“How the Dutch Conquered the World”), I first turned to Ben Coates’s marvelous outsider-turned-insider perspective on Dutch culture. This was exactly the overview I needed, and it remains my top recommendation for anyone preparing for a journey to The Netherlands — armchair or otherwise. After landing at Schiphol during a layover and meeting a Dutch woman (who later became his wife), Coates embarks on a journey to understand what makes the Netherlands tick. His exploration goes beyond the usual tulips and windmills, diving into the complex relationship between the Dutch and water (essential to cheese-making), their pragmatic approach to social issues, and how their trading history shaped their national character. What makes this book special is Coates' ability to balance admiration with critical observation. He doesn't shy away from examining the country's colonial past or addressing contemporary social tensions. Through personal anecdotes and historical context, readers gain genuine insight into how this small nation has developed its distinctive identity and outsized global influence. Learn more.
Cheese and Culture by Paul Kindstedt is essential reading for anyone interested in cheese and its 9,000 year history. Kindstedt, a food scientist with scholarly precision, connects cheese production to pivotal moments in civilization's development—from Neolithic farming communities to modern industrialization. I reread the chapters on monastic cheese-making traditions as I put together How to Explore Classic Belgian Cheese in Belgium. They are are particularly illuminating, revealing how religious orders preserved and advanced food science during Europe's medieval period. Kindstedt's passion for his subject makes even the most technical aspects of cheese chemistry and aging accessible and intriguing. This book forever changes how readers will view their cheese boards. Learn more
Madame Fromage's Adventures in Cheese by Tenaya Darlington strikes the perfect balance between educational guide and a delightful culinary escapade. Unlike more academic works on cheese, Darlington's approach is refreshingly conversational and approachable—like having a knowledgeable friend guiding you through a tasting. Her concept of organizing cheese exploration into eight tasting journeys proves remarkably effective, helping readers build confidence as they progress from fresh cheeses to the challenging world of blues. Darlington has an enviable gift for sensory description; she captures not just flavors but textures, aromas, and emotional responses cheese can evoke. Her pairing suggestions extend beyond the expected wine recommendations to include unexpected companions like bourbon, honey, and even music selections. The photography throughout is stunning, making this both a practical resource and a volume worthy of display. Want to elevate your cheese appreciation with joy rather than pretension? Madame Fromage is the perfect companion! Learn more.
Be sure to check in with the Destination Resources Reading Lists, which I update regularly with new books, podcasts, TV and film, and other resources designed to make your travel meaningful. I did a big update recently, changing the format to make it easier to navigate. Visit via this link!
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New & Noteworthy
Museum of Modern Art Warsaw (MSN Warsaw), Poland
MSN Warsaw's striking new home finally opened in fall 2024, directly facing the iconic Palace of Culture & Science. This bold institution showcases post-Cold War Polish art in a light-filled minimalist space. The reimagined permanent collection opened on February 21, 2025, and is high on my list of must visit museums!
Address: ul. Marszałkowska 8, 00-590 Warsaw|artmuseum.pl/en
V&A East Storehouse, London, UK
Opened May 2025 in a repurposed Olympic Media Center, this innovative V&A offshoot revolutionizes museum access. Glass walls replace traditional storage, allowing visitors to view—and even handle—treasures from the museum's 2.8 million-piece collection through their "radical access" program. What a development! I can’t wait to visit!
Contact: Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, London E20 | vam.ac.uk/east-storehouse | Admission: Free, booking required for object handling
Fenix Museum of Migration, Rotterdam, Netherlands
This compelling new museum occupies Rotterdam's historic Fenix Warehouse—once the world's largest, and is a delightful addition to the city’s considerable cultural offerings. The museum explores global migration through multimedia exhibitions in a space that once served as a departure point for countless transatlantic journeys.
Contact: Veerlaan 19-21, 3072 AN Rotterdam| fenix.nl/en
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Window Shopping
Looking for great Dutch Cheese outside of The Netherlands? See Murray’s Cheese’s extensive list of superb Gouda and other brands.
This soft cheese knife is exactly the summer entertaining tool you need to keep your creamy soft cream and goat cheese tidy! A game changer!
Gourmet Food World has an array of Cheese Accompaniments for your next cheese night in: crackers, nuts, jams, and more!
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Creative Corner
Hello Creatives!
How goes the work?
I have been battling the insidious “Shiny Object Syndrome” this week.
In the world of writing, where ideas flourish like mushrooms after an early autumn shower, "Shiny Object Syndrome" represents a particular challenge. This phenomenon—the irresistible pull toward new projects before completing current ones—can transform a writer's journey into roadblocks strewn with brilliant but unfinished work.
I got an idea for a sweeping historical novel that would move through the ages, hitting each turning point. It is a fantastic idea: sort of Edward Rutherford meets J.R.R. Tolkien. I lay awake from about 4:00 am when the idea burst into my mind and let it germinate — or rather, it was more like yeast proofing. So many thoughts crowded into my head. I only stopped thinking about it to get up and deliver my History of Norway talk, which has a lot of moving parts.
After the talk, I told Dima a bit about the new idea. Happily, he’s well aware of Shiny Object Syndrome, and gently reminded me that not only do I have a full pipeline of non-fiction to write, I’m about 180,000 words into my other historical novel series. Not to mention the pipeline of Adriatic talks, due at the end of August.
He was right, of course.
You probably recognize this hazard: that moment: you're deep in a manuscript — maybe in the mushy middle — when suddenly, a dazzling new concept arrives urgent, and infinitely more exciting than your current project. It will flow from your pen, you think, so much easier than the work in progress!
It’s so seductive.
But 99 times out of 100, the project you are working on is the one you should focus on.
Here are a few strategies I employed to incubate this (truly amazing) idea, and get back to my schedule of work:
The Idea Garden: I think it is critical to maintain a dedicated space—digital or physical—where new ideas can safely land. Record them with enough detail to capture their essence, then deliberately set them aside. This practice honors the creativity while maintaining a focus on your primary work. I make a Notion project for each idea, and tag it “Potential Idea.” I know exactly where to find it, and I will be prompted to review it at least once a month during my regular monthly reviews.
Scheduled Incubation Sessions: Allocate specific times to nurture promising concepts without derailing current projects. I use airplane “dead time” for this, because not being able to go online means I can focus more on the ideas, and I’m not likely to fall down the research rabbit hole!
The Completion Covenant: Establish non-negotiable milestones for your current project before allowing yourself to fully engage with new inspirations. For each project I create in Notion, I prompt myself to answer about ten questions about the project: why I want to prioritize it (or not), why it is important, how lucrative can it be, and what kind of challenges might I face if I pursue it.
The 48-Hour Rule: When captivated by a new concept, impose a waiting period. After two days, reassess its appeal—genuine brilliance maintains its luster, while mere distractions often fade. I jettison nothing from the Notion project list, though some ideas seem silly indeed after a lengthy incubation period.
I try to remember that creative momentum resembles compound interest—consistent investment in one project often yields greater returns than scattered attention across many. Careful handling of a new shiny object can mean that it is there for you when you have completed your current work in progress.
I hope this is helpful. I’d love to know how you cope with Shiny Object Syndrome?
Recent Articles
The Ultimate Guide to Exploring the Best Dutch Cheese
How to Explore Classic Belgian Cheese in Belgium
8 hours in Reykjavik: Top Activities & Attractions
Iceland’s Geothermal Blue Lagoon: Know Before You Go
The Must-Try Things to Eat and Drink in Iceland
Edwardian Age Elegance at The King’s Gallery
Norwegian Cuisine: What to Eat and Drink in Norway
A Brief History of Norway | Early Settlement to Today
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What's on the Horizon?
I will be sorry to leave lovely Norway. It always recharges something in me to come here during the summer months. I look forward to visiting in February and March, though I cannot even imagine how cold and dark it will be. But this is a great way to up my chances of that bucket list item: seeing the Northern Lights!
I’m also looking forward to being home for a while, visiting Riga’s Central Market, having a beach day (or 10) at Jūrmala, and enjoying the magic of a Baltic summer.
I hope you are enjoying your summer!
As a subscriber to the Destination Curation Newsletter, you have access to my cruise schedule, which you can visit here. If any of these voyages align with your travel plans, I'd love to share the journey with you!
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