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May 11, 2025

Greetings from Glacier Bay, Alaska!

A very happy Mother’s Day to all celebrating today! I’m very grateful to be spending this Mother’s Day with my mom, on Seabourn Quest. My only concern is how to get her off the ship when we arrive in Vancouver: she's had a wonderful cruise, made lots of friends, and sampled each of Seabourn's signature souffles.

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Our six-day voyage across the Pacific to Alaska was chilly but action-packed, with the added challenge of moving the clocks forward each night. We crossed the International Date Line on May 4, which necessitated repeating May 4. We also crossed the geographic line from the Eastern to Western Hemispheres. This caused havoc with iPhones, computers, and Apple Watches to say nothing of the World Clock, which is all out of whack.

We were beyond fortunate in Hakodate on Hokkaido — Japan’s northern island — to happen upon the cherry blossoms in full flower. It had been two weeks since we enjoyed this annual cultural phenomenon in Kyoto and Tokyo; so we were delighted to see the trees once again in full flower at Hakodate’s Goryokaku Fort. This star-shaped Goryokakyu park boasts some 1,600 cherry trees.

We took a delightful stroll through the trees, festooned with lanterns that must be magical at night. The citizens of Hakodate had gathered for the traditional hanami or cherry blossom viewing. This includes picnicking under the trees, seated on the signature blue tarp, which adds a punch of color to the sea of pale pink.

The Lessons of Japan

As we left Japan, I ruminated on the unique lessons the Japanese have to teach the world. These are more numerous than I can list here, so I will confine myself to four I’ve encountered on this voyage, which have intrigued me sufficiently to do additional research and reading on them.

I’m greatly indebted to my fellow lecturer, Terry Goldberg, who shared his perspective on Japanese culture in wonderful conversations on board. His insights inspired me do more research and reading on these concepts.

1. Mujō: The Ephemera of Everything

The Japanese acknowledge that time moves swiftly and relentlessly forward, and that everything is temporary and fleeting. This prompts them to savor moments in the present, be it in their reverence for food that is at its peak of freshness (the concept of shun), or the necessity to stop everything, and picnic with friends and family under the cherry trees when they are in full bloom, or under the autumn trees in full color (momiji).

Like many Westerners, I shy away from the notion that everything is ephemeral, because I’m squeamish about acknowledging the concept of mortality — mine or anyone’s! The Japanese seem more comfortable with that inevitability, and recognize the need to celebrate the here and now by making it special and making it count.

2. Omotenashi: The Concept of Wholehearted, Selfless Hospitality

Omotenashi is part of the deeply rooted culture in the Japanese workplace, underscoring everyone’s dedication to their craft and collective responsibility.

Much has been written about the pros and cons of the Japanese model of work, but one cannot deny that there is an exceptional dedication to customer service that far exceeds anything I’ve encountered in North America.

Omotenashi was on display in tiny kiosks in the Amami islands as much as it was in the elegant interiors of the sprawling Takishimaya department store. You find it in the convenience stores, at and even immigration points. It is ubiquitous.

As passengers of Seabourn Quest, we experienced a moving manifestation of omotenashi in almost every port we visited. Each day as we prepared to sail away, the townspeople gathered at the quayside and put on a performance: in one town, drummers, in another children dancing, and in a third a group of people singing. These ensembles gathered with grace and sincerity to wave us off, and often the people of these towns and cities joined them, waving us off as our ship slipped its lines and moved out into the harbor.

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This comes to mind when I think about omotenashi: our visits to these ports had been fleeting, but they were celebrating the fact that we had visited. They seemed genuinely glad we had come. We were all left with a feeling of warmth and gratitude.

3. Ma: The Importance of Meaningful Space or Emptiness

I knew about ma from my study of the Japanese tea ceremony, where the contemplative silence and stillness during the ceremony is almost as important as the elegant gestures of those performing this important cultural ritual.

We can define ma as the space or pause between either words or actions. I’ve noticed that Westerners are very uncomfortable with silences, particularly in social or professional settings. The Japanese are not; they know the importance of negative space not only in human interaction but also in art, where ma provides the balance that makes Japanese painting and sculpture so compelling.

Ma is present in Japanese music and the performing arts as well, and the pauses emphasize the meaning of gestures and movements, or specific sounds.

Once you begin to look for ma in Japan, you see it everywhere: in the incomparable calligraphy, the subtile simplicity and symmetry of the architecture, the presentation of the food, and the minimalist aesthetic of Japanese fashion and decor.

Someone told me that ma can be defined as “breathing space,” and don’t we all need that?

4. Ikigai: The Reason for Being​
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This is perhaps the most important concept, and it turns up again and again when you explore the Japanese mindset. And pretty soon someone will steer you enthusiastically towards Ikigai: The Japanese Secret to a Long and Happy Life by Hector Garcia. And rightly so.

I read Garcia’s book in 2018, when I was desperate to find an alternative career path. The symmetry of the concept of ikigai’s core principles intrigued me, as did this chart:

There is more to it, of course, and I expand on ikigai in this week’s Creative Corner, but it has been both intriguing and revelatory to revisit this concept Ikigai: The Japanese Secret to a Long and Happy Life (which I highly recommend if you are looking for purpose or just the recipe for longevity!)

When I look at what I do today — a eclectic combination of lecturing, writing for my website and this newsletter, as well as some long-term ideas I have for new books, I’m struck that I’ve got very close to my ikigai.

These four lessons were easy to absorb in Japan — the Japanese live them with purpose and integrity. I’m grateful to be taking them home with me, and eagerly looking forward to a return journey to Japan when I can delve deeper.

Spotlight on Hokkaido: Japan's Distinctly Different Northern Island

Hokkaido, Japan’s northernmost major island, is having a moment with travel influencers, who recognize the appeal of the island’s vast wilderness, dramatic mountains, pristine national parks, and four dramatically distinct seasons. It is a superb place to visit on a cruise ship!

What Makes Hokkaido Different?

Hokkaido's unique climate sets it apart as a refreshing escape from Japan's typically humid weather patterns, particularly in summer. Hokkaido experiences true four-season weather, with long, snowy winters that transform the landscape into a winter sports paradise, and comfortable, mild summers that provide relief from the intense heat found elsewhere in Japan.

The untamed wilderness of Hokkaido represents Japan's last frontier of truly wild spaces. Hokkaido boasts six national parks, including the dramatic Daisetsuzan National Park, Japan's largest.

Hokkaido harbors diverse ecosystems where nature enthusiasts can encounter Hokkaido brown bears, the island’s signature red-crowned cranes, and sea eagles. The pristine forests, caldera lakes, and steaming volcanic valleys offer outdoor enthusiasts countless opportunities for hiking, camping, and wildlife observation in settings that feel worlds away from Japan's urban centers.

The presence of the indigenous Ainu people adds a unique cultural dimension to Hokkaido's identity. Their traditional lifestyle, deeply connected to the natural world, is an important aspect of the island's cultural landscape, and happily today, this is being embraced as an important part of the country’s cultural heritage.

Hokkaido’s Upopoy National Ainu Museum and Park in Shiraoi showcase the island’s traditional crafts, performances, and oral histories, which keep this vital aspect of Japanese history alive. The Ainu influence can be seen in local place names, traditional designs, and cultural practices that continue to enrich Hokkaido's cultural tapestry.

Hokkaido was relatively undeveloped until the sweeping changes of the Meiji era. The cities of the island are relatively modern, such as Sapporo, with its American-inspired grid system and spacious boulevards, exemplifies the more modern approach to urban design. Western-style buildings, constructed during the island's colonization period, stand alongside traditional Japanese architecture, creating a unique architectural heritage that reflects Hokkaido's role as a bridge between Japanese and Western influences.

Japan’s Food Bowl

The vast plains and ideal growing conditions on Hokkaido make the island the country's leading producer of dairy products, wheat, potatoes, and other crops. The island's farmers have developed specialized techniques to maximize the shorter growing season, resulting in products renowned for their exceptional quality. From the sweet corn of Tokachi to the prized melons of Yubari, Hokkaido's agricultural prowess has earned it the nickname of “Japan's food bowl.”

Once you explore Hokkaido, you learn this moniker is well-deserved.

Hokkaido's chilly waters yield some of Japan's finest seafood, including a prized uni (sea urchin), crab, and salmon, all of which are on proud display at Hakodate’s famous “Morning Market.” We had several parties, led by the redoubtable Chef Christophe, from Seabourn Quest, to visit this and other markets for superb fresh seafood, which we thoroughly enjoyed on board.

The abundance of dairy products has led to the development of uniquely Hokkaido dishes and products, such as soup curry, Sapporo ramen with its rich miso-based broth, and the famous soft-serve ice cream. The region's food culture adhere’s to the fundamental Japanese principles of shun emphasizing freshness, simplicity, and the natural flavors of high-quality ingredients, creating a gastronomic experience distinct from traditional Japanese cuisine.

Highlights of Traveling in Hokkaido

Best Times to Visit

Each season offers unique attractions:

• Summer (June-August): Lavender fields, hiking, and mild temperatures
• Autumn (September-November): Spectacular fall foliage and harvest festivals
• Winter (December-March): Snow festivals, skiing, and winter sports
• Spring (April-May): Cherry blossoms bloom later than mainland Japan

Whether you're seeking outdoor adventures, culinary discoveries, or a peaceful retreat into nature, Hokkaido offers a refreshing perspective on Japanese culture and landscape that feels worlds away from the bustling streets of Tokyo.

Major Cities and Urban Centers

• Sapporo: The capital city and cultural heart of Hokkaido features famous landmarks like the Sapporo Clock Tower and the historic Odori Park. Home to the annual Snow Festival, it's also known for its vibrant food scene, including the Sapporo Beer Museum and countless ramen establishments.
• Hakodate: This port city is renowned for its spectacular night views from Mount Hakodate, historic Western-style buildings in the Motomachi district, and the morning market where visitors can sample fresh seafood. The star-shaped Goryokaku Fort offers both historical significance and beautiful cherry blossoms in spring.
• Otaru: A charming city famous for its preserved canal area, glass-making traditions, and fresh sushi. The romantic atmosphere of its gas-lit streets and historic warehouses makes it a popular destination for couples.
• Asahikawa: The second-largest city in Hokkaido is known for its world-class zoo, excellent ramen, and serves as a gateway to the Daisetsuzan National Park. The city's central location makes it an ideal base for exploring Hokkaido's interior.
• Kushiro: Eastern Hokkaido's largest city is famous for its wildlife, particularly the red-crowned cranes. The city offers excellent seafood markets and serves as an access point to the Kushiro Wetlands, Japan's largest marshland.

Cruising around Hokkaido was pure joy: stunning scenery, lots to do, friendly local people, eager to engage with us, and delectable food on every street corner. I would return in a heartbeat!

3 New Additions to the Destination Resources

If the concept of ikigai intrigues you, look not further than Ikigai: The Japanese Secret to a Long and Happy Life by Hector Garcia. Garcia outlines the principles of this “reason for being” in very digestible prose, and interviews with the inhabitants of Ogimi in the Okinawa Prefecture are fascinating. This is known as the “village of longevity.”

On board Seabourn Quest, my colleague, Terry Goldberg posited convincingly that it is the healthy diet of the people of Okinawa that results in an unprecedented number of centenarians, but Garcia looks also to their clear embrace of their own ikigai, be it for arts, teaching, gardening, or science.

Speaking of longevity, let me give a shout out to my friend, Susan Saunders, who has done a huge amount of work on the topic of aging with her colleague and co-writer, Annabel Streets. The result is their excellent The Age-Well Project: Easy Ways to a Longer, Healthier, Happier Life, which I found essential reading as I navigated my 50s.

I’m often surprised and delighted to discover that some of my favorite history podcasts publish episodes about a region I’m traveling in. This was the case with the award-winning The Rest is History pod, which published a truly fascinating two-episode mini series on The Golden Age of Japan, which is a must listen if you are planning a trip to Japan, or if you simply want to learn more about this age of expansive culture in medieval Japan.

Another coincidence (?) was Gone Medieval’s wonderful episode looking at Genghis Khan’s Pax Mongolica, which dropped the day I delivered one of my favorite talks on the Voyages of Exploration from 1550 BCE to 1550 CE. It’s a fire hose of exploration, which includes the wonderful tales of Marco Polo, who gets a big mention in the talk and the episode. Listen to learn more.

For more books on Japan, Japanese art and architecture, and cuisine, visit by Destination Resources section dedicated to Asia.​

While you are there, look at other Destination Resources Reading Lists, which I update regularly with new books, podcasts, TV and film, and other resources designed to make your travel meaningful. I did a big update recently, changing the format to make it easier to navigate. Visit via this link!

New & Noteworthy

It’s clearly time to learn even more about Japanese and Asian Art! I’ve added these collections to my very long list of must-visit-when-I’m-in-the-neighborhood exhibits, museums, and collections:

​Reasons to Gather: Japanese Tea Practice Unwrapped at the National Museum of Asian Art Freer Gallery in Washington DC brings the visitor closer to the implements used in the iconic Japanese tea ceremony. Through April 2026. Learn more.​

I will certainly head to the British Museum to see the temporary exhibits of block prints by Hiroshige: Artist of the Open Road. During our time in Shizuoka, we visited the Shizuoka City Tokaido Hiroshige Museum of Art. This was oddly out of the way, and we employed the only taxi driver in Japan who had neither a GPS nor a mobile phone, so it took a while to get there. But well worth it. The British Museum temporary exhibit is on through 7 September 2025.

A bit off my beaten track, but perhaps not yours, is the Denver Art Museum with a phenomenal collection begun in 1915 by Walter C. Mead, who donated his extraordinary collection of Japanese art to the people of Denver. This has grown into a simply phenomenal Asian art collection. You can enjoy several beautiful pieces on the Museum’s excellent website, but of course there is nothing like an in-person visit! If I’m ever in Denver, this will be my first stop. Learn more.

Window Shopping

I did not come to Japan with a long wish list of things to acquire, which is good, because I’m leaving with only one Japanese notebook — a B5 Romeo — which can be hard to find outside Japan, though you can find them here — nothing beats the quality of the paper!

The one thing I had in mind was a matcha bowl. I thought this would be a delightful addition to my tea ware, and a great way to enjoy the afternoon cup of green tea. I saw it in my mind, but it eluded me at every turn. In Takishimaya in Yokohama, a bright orange matcha bowl seemed like it might be what I was looking for, until I discovered it cost US$400.

So that wasn’t my bowl.

But this might be — a lovely example of the (more affordable) Mino Ware ceramics. I will keep it in mind as I enjoy the search.

I firmly pushed play on this Eileen Fisher cardigan, which will be perfect for late summer in Riga and early autumn in the Mediterranean — Eileen’s clothing is very much inspired by Japanese jackets and kimonos, and the pieces are perfect for the relaxed elegance of the luxury vessels where I work.

Creative Corner

Hello Creatives!

How is the work going?

I’ve been busy with my creativity modules on this voyage, which always reignites the creative urge to write fiction, which I often have to neglect in favor of the urgency of my non-fiction work.

A very special colleague who has joined us for this segment: the prolific author Debbie Maccomber who has inspired me to move forward with some of my fiction projects.

Debbie is a lovely, engaging, and generous speaker, and she spoke movingly about her own journey to becoming a #1 New York Times Bestselling writer (200 million books sold)! She taught a workshop about constructing a novel and shared her strategy for constructing a plot. This seems simple, but it spoke to me: she told us to think up 20 things that happen in the plot.

“The first 10 are easy,” she said, “the second not so much.”

Debbie shared a list of plot points she had made for a recent novel, A Cottage by the Sea. The simplicity of the scheme struck me. And it was oddly appealing. I’ve leaned heavily on software such as Aeon Timeline and Scrivener in the past to create very multi-dimensional plots that are perhaps too complex.

I’m intrigued to try Debbie’s method. No software, no color coding, no meta tagging…just a list of 20 things that happen in a novel. Then fill it in.

It’s clearly working for Debbie!

Debbie clearly has a firm handle on her own ikigai, which when we bring it into our professional lives involves considering the following:

• Balance: Finding harmony between personal satisfaction and social contribution
• Continuous Improvement: Embracing the concept of "kaizen" or steady, incremental progress.
• Present-Mindedness: Living in and appreciating the current moment.
• Community Connection: Maintaining strong social bonds and contributing to others' well-being.
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For creatives, this framework can help transform artistic passion into a sustainable and meaningful pursuit.

Finding where your creative work meets societal needs is crucial.

Debbie recounted that until she realigned her mission statement with her readers and not herself, her career did not really take off.

That resonates with me: when I articulated that I wanted to make my readers’ travel meaningful, my content production soared: this one mission drove the creation of the 8-Hour Guides, the structure of this newsletter, and other writing and lecturing projects that are still in the pipeline.

Clearly, the place to start is to articulate what services we render with our creative endeavors. The rest will surely follow.

I’ll leave you with that. Let me know what you come up with!

What's on the Horizon?

Thank you to everyone who sent new subscribers my way this week! Wow! We are growing fast and this enables me to continue to do this work and make your travel meaningful. Share this newsletter with the easy link below via email or on your social media platforms! https://jennifereremeeva.com/subscribe.

Our journey continues to Vancouver, and from there to the east coast for a week, which will include a few days in New York, before I board the Queen Mary 2 to return to Europe. I’ll be sailing solo, as Dmitry is tied up with business in Europe. This seems like a good time to create a mini-retreat in the largest library at sea, and delve into some fiction writing and test drive Debbie’s system.

It will be a quick hiatus at home in Riga, and then it’s off to Dover to embark the Seabourn Sojourn for a lovely month and a half in gorgeous Norway and my beloved Iceland. I’ve got a lot planned and am rolling out some new 8-Hour Guides to Tromso, Trondheim, Reykjavik, Alesund, Honnigsvag, and Oslo.

I’m also doing research into the Polar explorations of Roald Amundsen and Fritjof Nansen, the cuisine of the Adriatic, and the history of Dubrovnik.

I love hearing from you -- let me know how I can help make your travel meaningful. I continue to write 8-Hour Guides to popular cruise destinations and love getting suggestions for European destinations you'd like to see included.

Thank you!

Here are some recent articles to enjoy:

​8 Hours in Tromso​

​My Top 10 Travel Planning Tools​

​Visit The Taiwan National Palace Museum in Taipei​

What is Japanese Cuisine? | History and Travel Guide​

​7 Steps to a Perfect Travel Bucket List​

​A Guide to Sicily’s Cruise Ports: What to Do on Shore​

​A Guide to Baltic and Scandinavian Cruise Ports​

Safe onward travels!

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